Glove and fur sewing machine



A. GRIEB.

GLOVE AND FUR SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILEI? NOV. I, 1919.

Patented Aug. 22, 1922;

3 SHEETS-SHEET l- WITNESSES:

ATTORNEY A. GRIEB.

GLOVE AND FUR SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV-1.1919.

Patented 22, 1922,-

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

a INVENTOR 4%; W B\Y/ WITNESSES! ATTORNEY I A. 'GRIEB. GLOVE AND FURSEWING MACHINE.

- APPLICATION FILED NOV- I. I919- 1,426,472.

Patented Aug. 22, 1922.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

WITNESSES:

ATTORNEY I To all whom it may concern ALFRED Game, a citi-- zen of theUnited States, residing at El1za-.

r sacs.

ALFRED GRIEB,

OF ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER- MANUFAC- TURINGCOMPANY, A CORPORATION NEW JERSEY.

' GLOVE: AND FUR SEWING MACHINE. I

Specification of Letters Patent.

I Patented Aug. 22, 1922.

Application filed November 1, 1919. Serial No. 385,087.

Be it known that I,

beth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Glove and Fur Sewing Machines,

of which the following is a specification, reference being had thereinto the accompanying drawings. i

This invention relates to overedge sewing machines particularly of thetype adapted for sewing furs and gloves.

A particular object of the invention'is to provide a new and improvedlooper-open ating mechanism for this type of machine which will insurethe enchainment of the This is attained by looperthread-loops. Ioperating mechanism which produces a dwell or very slow movement of thelooper while it is holding the thread-loop spread and in position forthe entrance of the needle, and until the needle has safely entered theloop, and which 'gives'a rapid movement of the looper as it enters theloop presented by the needle.

Another object of the invention is to provide means whereby the amountof movement of the looper and needle may be varied to adjust the machinefor'use in sewing both heavy and light materiahthus doing away with thenecessity of having two or more different machines.

A further object of the invention is to provide looper-operatingmechanism which has a more direct and compact driving arrangement thanthose hitherto in use, thus rendering it more durable, giving quietrunning, greater wearing qualities and speed.

The preferred embodiment comprises the usual intermittently rotatableare fed to the stitching mechanism which comprises in the embodimentshown a horizontally reciprocating needle and a cooperating looper.

The looper is vertically adjustable on a looper-bar which is fittedwithin a bearing bushing or sleeve mounted in a. yoke fulcrumed upon arocker member pivoted to the frame-work of the machine. For impartingthe rocking, or movement transverse the path of the needle, there issecured to the looper-bar adjacent the rear end thereof a crank providedwith a ball-stud fitting in a cam-groove formed in a disk mounted on themain-shaft. The horizontal feed cups, bywhich the edges of the materialto be united movements of the looper, that is in the-direction of theneedle-path, are imparted by meansof a bracket secured-to thelooperbar-bearing-bushing adjacent its rear end. This bracket formsoneend of a toggle driving mechanism, the other end of which mechanismis pivoted to one arm of a bellcrank-lever fulcrumed" on the frame ofthe machine-and having its other arm pivoted to the endbf a pitmandriven from an ec-.

centric on the main driving shaft. The pivot connection between thepitman and b'ellcrank-lever arm is adjustable to vary the effectivelength of this arm of the lever. This bellcrank and toggle drive for thelooper, together with the yoke fulcrumed on the rocker member give itits up and down movements. The arrangement of this direct driving meansis such that a dwell or slow movement is imparted to the looper when itis depressed on the needle side of the work to position the thread-loopfor the entrance of the needle.

Referring to the accompanying drawings for a more detailed descriptionof the invention, Fig. 1 is an .end elevation of the' machine with a'portion of the frame or casing broken away to show the interiormechanism. Fig. '2 is a plan view with the cover removed. Fig. 3 is apartial front elevation with certain elements shown in section, thesection bein substantially on the line 33, of Fig. 1. Tig. 4 is adetailed sectional view ofthe toggle driving mechanism. Fig. 5 is adetailed sectional view of the connection between the needle-bar drivingleverand needle-bar taken substantially on theline 5-5, Fig. 1. Fig-6isa side view of the mechanism shown in Fig. 5. Fig. 7 is a detailedsectional view of the looper-bar and looper-bar bearing-bushing. Figs.8, 9 and 10 are detailed views of the eccentrically mounted hearing studfor the connection between the driving pitmen and the needle-bar drivinglever and the looperdriving bellcrank-lever. Fig. 11 is a detailed viewof the toggle driving mechanism taken on substantially the line 11-11,Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrow. The machine comprises theframe or casing 1 extending transversely of which is the main drivingshaft 2 journaled in bearings 3 in the frame and having'the driving andhand pulleys 1 and 5 secured thereon. The frame is pivotally mounted onthe basesection 6.

Reciprocally mounted in bearings '7 and 8 in the upper part of the frameor casing 1 is the needle-bar 9., This needle-bar reciprocates insubstantially a horizontal plane as shown and is driven by theneedle-bar driving lever 10 fulcrumed in the frame at 11 connected atthe upper end of its. longer arm to a clamp 12, secured on theneedle-bar, by means of link 13. Connected to its shorter arm is thedriving pitman 14 carrying an eccentric strap coacting with theeccentric 15 on the main driving shaft. This pitman 14 is connected withthe needle-bar driving lever by means of an ecce-ntrically mountedbearing stud 16. The bearing stud 16 is secured in the lever 10 by meansof a stud 17 mounted of? center so that the stud is eccentricallymounted on the lever and by turnin the bearing stud 16 on the stud 17the e ective length of the driving arm of the lever 10 may be varied tovary the length of the stroke of the needleas is obvious. The bearingstud is secured in adjusted position by means of-a pin 17' screwed inthe member 16 at 17 and having its end 17 entering a hole drilled in thebellcrank-lever arm. To the forward end of the needle-bar is secured theneedle-clamp 18 carrying the needle 19.

The feeding mechanism comprises two cup-wheels 20'and 21 mounted so asto rotate in a horizontal plane. The feed-wheel 20 is mounted inbearings on the main frame 1' and is driven from the main driving shaft2 by means of an eccentric 22 and a pitman 22' through suitablemechanism, not shown, which imparts thereto a step-by-step motion as iswell known. The length of the intermitt/ant motion and therefore thelength of the stitch may be adjusted by means of the adjustablelink-clamp 22. The presserwheel 21 is mounted on a curved arm 23 pivotedto the main frame at 24 and is held in position with its edge coactingwith the edge of the wheel 20 by means of a spring 25 secured in theframe and bearing against a. roller-stud 26 mounted on the extension ofthe arm 23 as shown at 27. The force of the spring 25 may be adjusted bymeans of the adjusting screw 28. Presser-wheel 21 may be moved away fromthe feed-wheel 20 in order to insert the work therebetween by means ofthe lever 29 hearing on the under side of roller 26 and which may beoperated by a foot-treadle connected therewith by the rod 30. As shownin Fig. 1 the arm 23 extends upwardly and is bent over the line ofseam-formation in order to leave suflicient and unobstructed space belowthe feed-cups for the passage of the body of the work to be stitched.The wheel 21 ismounted upon the outer portion of the arm 23 by means ofa stud 31 upon which it is freely rotatable. This wheel is secured inposition by means of a needle-guide clamp 32 which performs the twofunctions of securing the cup-wheel 1n position and also providin aguide for the needle as shown at 32. T e member 32' being merely clampedupon the the stud 31 may be adjusted to or from the wheel 21 thuscompensating for any wear which may occur therein and maintaining it atall times rigid upon its bearing stud.

The looper comprises a curved member 33 having at itslower end the hook34 and at its upper end isadjusta-bly secured by af screw and slotconnection at 35 upon the head 33' secured] on the looper-bar 36 bymeans of! screw 33", The looper-bar 36 is fitted within a bearing sleeveor bushing'37 in such a way that it may be oscillated therein by: meansof a crank 38 secured at the rear. end of the looper-bar. The looper-bardriving crank 38 is provided with a ball-stud 39 fitting withinacam-groove 40 formedin the disk 41 mounted upon the main driving shaft.Mounted at the front of the frame 1 is the shaft 42 upon which ispivoted the rocker 43 provided with upwardly extending arms 44 in whichis fulcrumed the toggle yoke 45. This yoke in the embodiment shown iscurved over the needle-bar in substan tially the form of an inverted Uand is pivoted at its lower ends to the upper ends of the arms 44. Atthe upper part of this curved portion is formed the bearing 46 in whichthe looper-bar bearing sleeve or bushe ing 37 is adjustably secured. Themecha-,

nlsm for reciprocating the looper comprises a toggle-bracket 47 which isclamped upon the rear portion of the looper-bar bushing 37. This bracket47 is provided with a bearing stud 48. Secured in the frame at 49 is abearing stud 50 upon which is fulcrumed a toggle crank 51. This crank isprovided with an internal bearing 52. Reference character 53 designatesa toggle driving link formed with a laterally extending bearing bushingor sleeve 54 at one end which is fitted upon the stud 48 and Within thehearing 52 on the crank 51. Fulcrumed within the frame at 55 is abellcrank 56 having the two arms 57 and 58. The arm 58 is pivotallyconnected at 59 to the other end of the driving link .53. Thebellcrank-lever 56 is driven from the main-shaft 2 by means of aneccentrio 60 and its strap through the pitman '61. The connectionbetween the pitman 61 and the arm 57 of the bellcrank-lever isadjustable to vary the effective length of the arm 57. This adjustmentis secured by means of an eccentrically mounted bearing stud 16 the sameas is employed at 16 between the pitman 14 and the bellcrank-lever 10for driving the needle-bar. I

Pivotally supported on the top of the frame is the :over 62 carrying theusual spool-support 63, thread-tensioning means 64 and a thread-guide65. This cover may be swung back on its pivot in order to give and isused to take up the access to the various driving. mechanism within theframe.

Mounted upon the forward end of the needle-bar is the spring-pressedthread-nipper 66 released by means of'the stud or 1pm 67 bearing uponthe nipper-releasing p ate 68 as clearly shown in Fig. 2. Thisnipperplate is adj'ustably mounted on the bearing 8 by means of-a screwand slot69. Between the thread-guide 65 and the nipper 66 is thethread-control means 46'. This control means is mounted upon the yoke 46so that its movements are imparted thereto slack in the thread whichwould otherwise occur during the stitch-forming movement, thus giving atighter stitch.

. and bent so that its end is positioned scribed.

As the work to be stitchedis fed between the adjacent portions of thecup-wheels 20 and 21 it is guided and held for stripping the needle bymeans of a fixed guide secured upon the frame 1 extending outwardly1mmediately above the upper edge of the cupwheels and terminatingadjacent the path of the needle, as shown in Fig. 2.

In operation the overlapped edges of the work to be united by theoveredge stitch are inserted between the feed cup-wheels 20 and 21 andare fed thereby across the path of the needle. After the needlepenetrates the work the thread-loop presented thereby is entered by thehook 34 of the looper over the guide 32. The looper and needle are thenretracted, the looper carryin the loop in an arched path over the edge 0the. work and depressing it below this edge and holding it spread and inline with the path of the needle on its next stroke. In this positionwhich is substantially that shownin Figs. 1 and 2 a dwell or very slowmotion is given the looper by the mechanism de- The dwell in thetransverse or rocking motion is produced by a suitably shaped cam-groove'40. In the position shown in Fig. 1 the connection between the link 53and the bellcrank 56 is adjacent a straight line drawn through thecenter of the stud 48 upon which the link 53 is pivoted and the center55 upon which the bellcrank 56 is fulcrumed. Thus it will be seen thatas the arm 57 is raised by the pitman and eccentric the connectionbetween members 53 and the arm 58' move for a short distance around thepin 48 as a center without imparting any appreciable movement to thelooper-box bearing bushing 37. As the reciprocatory movement is causedby the motion of the link 53 and crank 51 about'the pivot 50 and the upand down movement of the looper is caused by these members cooperatingwith the yoke 46 which rises and falls as its connection with the arms44 of the rocker 43 move around the shaft 42 as a center it will thusbe. seen that a dwell or ed so'that it may the eccentrically very slightmotion either across'the center orin the upand down movement isproducedand the thread-loop is thus held in that depressed positionuntil the needle has safely entered the loop. By having the conhection.59 move nearly on the line connecting the pivots 48 and 55 while thelooper .is depressed, the amount of movement required of the pivot 59before imparting any appreciable motion to the looper may be increased,thus increasing the length of the dwell ortime consumed in the slowmovement.- The up and down movement of the looper caused by the yoke 46rising and falling as it moves with the rocker 43 about the pivot 42 isaugmented by the up and down movement imparted to the rear end of thelooper-bar by the toggle crank 51 as the stud or pivot 48 moves aboutthe stud 50 as a center, the stud 48 being on the bracket 47 secured tothe looper-bar-bushing 37 A machine set to'sew thin or light material isnot adapted for sewing heavy material and therefore generally a separatemachine adapted for such work is necessary. The present machine,however, is constructbe adjusted for sewing material as desired. fedbetween the being higher and either light or heavy When heavy materialis cups 20 and .21 the seam thicker the looper is required to have 'a'greater up and down movement or must move in an arched path of greaterheight when passing over the edge of the seam in order toclear the workthan is required in sewing light material and it preferably should alsohave a greater movement crosswise of the path of the material. Theadjustment is accomplished first by turning mounted bearing stud 16 anarc of substantially 180 fromthat shown in Fig. 1. Thus as thesupporting means is off center it will shift the center of the bearingstud toward the fulcrum 55 .of the bellcrank-lever 56 thus shorteningthe effective length of the arm 57. As the driving eccentric 6O impartsthe same motion to the pitman '61 as it did before, obviously the upperend of the arm 58 is-given a greater movement about the fulcrum 55. Thisgives both greater horizontal movement to the looper-bar and greater upand down movement to the rear end thereof to which it is connected.These augmented movements are obviously imparted to the looper 33.However, in the embodiment of on its pivot through the inventionillustrated as the rear end of position through its adjustableconnection.

35 on the looper-bar to compensate for this lower movement. I Thisresetting of the looper hook brings it higher as it passes er anw overthe edge of the work and thus gives greater clearance therebetween.Shifting of the needle-bar driving lever 10 in the same manner as theconnection between the pit- -man 61 and the bellcrank-arm 57 as will beobvious.

It will be seen that the driving mechanism for the looper is verycompact and the drive is direct thus doing away with a large number ofparts and obviating lost motion which would necessarily resulttherefrom. By this direct drive arrangement the mechanism is moredurable, has greater wearing qualities, is quiet running and may beoperated at high speeds.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis-- 1. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a needle and looper,"a looper-bar, a pivoted yoke forsupporting the looper-bar, means for oscillating the looper-bar aboutits axis, toggle means connected to the looper-bar and adapted toreciprocate said bar and with the yoke to impart up and down movementsto the looper, and means for operating said toggle means.

2. In a sewing machine having a frame,

' in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle andlooper, a looperbar, a yoke pivotally'mounted in. the frame andsupportlng the looper-bar, means for oscillating the looper-bar, togglemeans for reciprocating said bar and with the yoke imparting up and downmovements to the looper, comprising a bracket connected to the bar, atoggle-crank fulcrumed on the frame and a toggle-link pivoted in thecrank and on the bracket by concentric bearings and means for operatingsaid link.

3. In a sewing machine having a frame,in combination, stitch-formingmechanism including a needle and looper, a looper-bar, alooper-bar-bushing in which the looper-bar is sustained, means foroscillating the looper-bar, a yoke pivotally mounted in the frame andsupporting the looper-bar-bush ing, a bracket secured to said bushing, acrank fulcrumed on the frame, and a link pivoted to the bracket, andcrank and means for operating said link.

4. In a sewing machine having a frame and stitch-forming mechanismincluding a looper, means for o erating the looper com-' prising alooperar, a yoke pivotally mounted in the frame and sustaining thelooper-bar, means for oscillating the looperbar about its axis, atoggle-crank fulcrumed on theframe, a toggle-bracket connected with thelooper-bar and having pivotal connection with the crank, a link havingpivotal connection with the crank and bracket and means for operatingsaid link.

5. In a sewing machine having a frame and stitch-forming mechanismincluding a looper, a looper-bar, means for oscillating the looper-barabout its axis, means for reciprocating and giving up and down movementsto said looper-bar comprising a bracket connected with the looper, acrank fulcrumed in the frame, a toggle-link pivoted to the crank andbracket and means for operating said link comprising a bellcrankleverfulcrumed in the frame and having an arm pivoted to the link and meansfor operating said bellcrank-lever.

6. In a sewing machine having a frame and stitch-forming mechanismincluding a crank fulcrumed in the frame, a toggle-link pivoted in thecrank and on the bracket b concentric pivots, a bellcrank-lever fucrumed in the frame and having pivot means connecting one arm thereof tothe link and operating means connected to the other arm of thebellcrank-lever.

In an overedge sewing machine having a frame, stitch-forming mechanismcomprising a horizontally reciprocating needle, means for sustaining andfeeding the edges of the work in the path of the needle, a loopercooperating with the needle in forming an overedge stitch, a looper-barfor sustaining the looper, a yoke fulcrumed in the frame, alooper-bar-bushing mounted in the yoke and sustaining the looper-bar, acrank secured on the looper-bar and cam means cooperating therewith foroscillating the looper, a toggle-bracket secured to thelooper-bar-bushing and provided with a bearing stud, a toggle-crankfulcrumed in the frame and provided with a bearing, a toggle linkprovided with a bearing sleeve fitted on the toggle-bracket stud andfitted in the bearing in the toggle-crank, a bellcrank-lever pivoted tothe link and fulcrumed in the frame and means for oscillating thebellcranklever.

8. In a sewing machine having a frame and stitch-forming mechanismincluding a looper, means for operating the looper comprising a bracketconnected with the looper and have a bearing stud. a crank fulcrumed inthe frame and provided with a bearing, a link having a bearing sleevefitted on thestud and fulcrumed in the crank bearing and means foroperating the link.

' justably mounting the looper on ranged that the movements impartedthere-.

by to the looper are compounded.

10. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism including 'a.looper, means for operating the looper including a toggle-link-drive,power means, a bellcranklever having one arm connected with thetoggle-link-drive and the other arm connected with the power means, andmeans for shifting the latter pivot so as to vary the effective lengthof the bellcrank-lever arm.

11. In an overedge sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanismincluding a needle and looper, means for sustaining and feeding theedges of the work to be united across the path of the needle, means forvarying the amount of needle movement, means for imparting movement tothe looper up and down and across over the said edges, said means beingconstructed to produce a dwell in themotion of the looper durin thepassage of the needle into the threa -loop positioned by the looper, and

' means for adjusting the looper operating means to vary the amount ofthe up an down and transverse movements of the looper.

'12. In an overedge sewingmachine havstitch-forming mechanism includinga needle and looper, means for sustaining and feeding the edge of thework across the path of the needle, a looper-bar, means 'for adthelooper-bar, means for operatlng the looperbar to give the loopermovement up and down and across over the edge of the work, said meansbeing constructed to produce a dwell in the motion of the looper duringthe passage of'the needle into the thread-loop positioned by the looper,and means for adjusting the latter means to vary the amount of thelooper movements.

13. An overedge sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism includinga needle and looper, a main-shaft, means for sustaining and feeding thework across the path of the needle, needle-operating means andlooper-operating means independently connected to the main shaft, andindependent needle and looper adjustments whereby the needle andloopermovements may be varied and coordinated to adjust the machine fordifierent classes and thicknesses of work.

it. In a sewi g machine having stitchpjvoted to the rockerformingmechanism including a needle and looper, means for driving looper,needle adjusting means for adjusting the length of the movement of theneedle, and means independent of the needle adjusting means foradjusting movement of the looper to adapt the machine for differentclasses of work.

15. A sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism including a needleand a looper, a main-shaft, operating mjeans connecting the main-shaftwith the needle, and means independent of the needle-operating means forconnecting the main-shaft with the looper, said needle andloopero'perating means each including adjustable devices having two setpositions 'of adjustment to adapt the machine for light and heavy work.

16. In a sewing machine having a frame and stitch-forming mechanismincluding a looper, a yoke mounted in the frame for bodily movementrelative to the latter, a looper-bar sustained by the yoke, a looperbaroperating means and thread-control means carried by the yoke and bodilymovable therewith.

17. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming the needle and the length ofmechanism including a needle and looper, a.

looper-support, means for reciprocating the needle, means for impartingup and down and reciprocatory movements to the looper and for causingthe looper -of looper movement, and means whereby the looper may beadjusted on its support.

18. In an overedge sewing-machine, stitchforming mechanism including aneedle and looper, means for sustaining and feeding the edge of the workacross the path of the needle, a looper-support, means for adjustablymounting the looper on the support, means for imparting movements to thelooper up and down and across over the edge of the work and for causingthe looper to dwell as the needle enters the thread-loop positioned bythe looper, means whereby the amount of these looper'movements may bevaried, and means for varying the amount of the needle movements.

19. An overedge sewing machine having, means for sustaining and feedingthe work, a reciprocating needle, a looper, a mainshaft, workingconnections between the main-shaft and the needle and looper operativeto cause the looper to seize and present thread-loops from and to theneedle alternately at positions on opposite sides of the work, and meansfor varying the amplitude looper mechanism to correspondingly vary todwell as the needle enters the thread-loop positioned by lac thedistance between the loop-seizing and loop-presenting positions of the'looper,

thereby adapting the machine for/sewing both li ht and heavy Work.

5 20.1 n overedge sewing machine having,

means for sustaining and feeding the work,

a reciprocating needle, looper mechanism including a looper and meansfor moving it to seize and present thread-loops from and 10 to theneedle alternately at positions on opposite sides of the work andup-and-down in an arched path across the edge of the work, the loopermechanism having provision for adjustment to var the height of thearched path of motion 0 the looper between loopseizing andloop-presenting positions at sub stantially constant levels. 7

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.ALFRED GRIEB.

